About the SL-1176-KIT
The SL-1176-KIT is different than
all the others - clones and kits - because it's not an exact copy of an
1176, but a versatile hybrid of some of the most popluar circuits ever.
The Kit's modular design will educate as part fo the process, encourage
experimentation and ultimately become a functional piece of professional
audio gear that is both unique and sonically pleasing.
Each stage of electronics is on its own
Printed Circuit Board (PCB) to make it easier for those new to DIY to learn
about audio electronics. The side-chain circuit works exactly like
a production 1176. The input and output amps are tried and true Neve
The SL-1176-KIT was purposefully
designed to be open ended so that builders can customize in any way they
see fit. For example, you may want to use the original T-attenuator
and transformer at the input. Or you may want to build a buffer driver
/ receiver section for a side-chain insert.
Certain features were intentionally made
open ended so the DIY-er could use a variety of parts, whether you're super
tweaky or just want to use what's easily accessible. For instance,
the power supply board does not have provisions for a fuse holder or connections
for a power switch so that many different types of power transformers,
fuse holders and power switches can be used. The builder simply needs to
wire them up external to the power supply board.
Similarly, the ratio switch PCB is not
designed around a particular switch. I used a rotary switch to save space
and because I had a few lying around. You might prefer radio style
buttons like the original.
The parts lists contain part numbers, sources
(USA only) and prices. Please keep in mind that our posted prices for parts
are for reference only, mostly so you can get an idea of what a completed
unit will cost. The prices may be different when you place your order.
Other items like hookup wire are not listed. The miscellaneous parts
spreadsheet will have suggestions and part numbers for some of those items.
You don't have to use the exact parts specified.
The Tools you will need are detailed below
click here to see what they look like and where to buy them)
Before you begin adding components, figure
out how the printed circuit boards (PCBs) will be placed in your chassis.
Laying the PCBs out first, without components, will improve the precision
of the mounting hole locations. Use a Sharpie / marker and then make
a dimple using a hammer and nail to so that the drill will not wander (especially
if you don't have a drill press). One exception, the RATIO switch does
have one header and resistor attached. You should still be able to
mark hole locations.
Fine tipped 20-30 watt soldering iron w/ cleaning
Rosin core solder (Kester #44 or equivalent)
Digital volt meter (DVM)
Small needle nose pliers
Small diagonal cutters
Phillips screwdriver (#1)
Electric hand drill with a variety of bits/or
Flat and round metal files to file out Meter
holes, XLR holes, etc. A greenlee punch is a nice tool for XLR holes, but
can be done without.
An oscilloscope and signal generator would
be very helpful, but not necessary to complete a working kit.
When designing your layout, keep the power
supply as far away from the audio circuitry as possible. Input stage
gain boards and Input / Output (I/O) transformers should be on the opposite
side of the power supply. Look
at the photos of the prototype on the web site as an example.